Mata Atua
This was such a special place for both of us. Located in the town of Whakatane, (pronounced fuck-a-ta-ni) was the Ngati Awa Maori Tribe visitors centre.
We were lucky enough to be the only two people there, so we received a personal tour of their history, language and culture. The visitors Centre was built around the story of the house that came home. The House is an intricately carved Maori house (or wharenui) A meeting house, hand carved by the local Maori’s in the 1870’s to bring the Ngati Awa people together in times of hardship during
the New Zealand land wars between the Maori and the European settlers.
Not long after the house was built, it was taken away and shipped overseas to Sydney, Melbourne and London, to be put up in inside out, exposed to the elements and put on display in museums around the world. 130 years later, after many requests from the Ngati Awa, the house was returned to its rightful owners and it now rests, restored as close as possible to its original beauty in Whakatane.
We were welcomed into the wharenui through a traditional Maori welcoming ceremony. With me as the woman of the Australian tribe, leading my chief up the path as a sign that we came in peace. The peace token was laid before us on the ground in a rather intimidating manner, we picked up the token and made our way down the path whilst being swallowed by the sound of Maori song and chanting. Upon entering the Wharenui we sat down and were greeted by the brothers both in their native language and thankfully in English too, so we could interpret their meaning. They welcomed us in speech and song not once, or twice, but thrice to be sure.
We were then asked to follow the custom and provide a response. My chief Mark, bravely stood tall and said some wonderful words thanking them for their hospitality and explained how humbled we were to have this experience. This was followed by me, who sung a small tune called we are australian.
As the welcomes were complete, it was time to experience the Hongi. (Pressing of noses) which represents a sharing of the breath of life. It felt so genuine, we truly felt welcome in their house as brothers and sisters of this earth.
We were then welcomed to take some photographs of the house before we were treated with an incredible light show which told us some more stories of the carvings and their origination.
I’ve always known of a slight emptyness inside myself through lack of spiritual connection in the world, which was only enhanced by my jealousy of the Maori culture and their deep connection with each other and sky father and earth mother. It was a truly humbling experience to be reminded that we all have a story to tell and I was honored to have the Ngati Awa’s story shared with me.
I cannot recommend this experience highly enough. Here’s some pictures of the wharenui, which I might add, don’t do it justice.
P.S. We also visited a waterfall just 100 meters down the road which was significant to the Ngati Awa.
What a beautiful experience.
On the one hand, it’s wonderful that you got such a personal experience without other tourists, but… it’s a shame that more people aren’t there to learn about the culture.
Yeah, of course!! Although I have to say I’m really impressed with the integration of European and Maori cultures in New Zealand. Nothing is ever perfect, but a couple of people have mentioned to us how so much progress has been made and even the Europeans are starting to embrace the Maori language and culture. The rate of speaking Maori is increasing, not decreasing. It felt different to Australia, less ‘segregation’ It was extremely positive to see that there is a way forward from the abhorrent pasts and encouraging to see the New Zealanders positive attitude on the matter.